Mademoiselle Privé, a new journey to the sprit of Chanel

Chanel made it again.  Following “Little Black Jacket” (2012) and “N°5. Culture Chanel” (2013), the house of Chanel invites us to another journey to the core of the house: Mademoiselle Privé, the exhibition which started on 13th October at Saatchi Gallery in London’s Chelsea area. This time the house focused on three patrimonial elements among others such as high jewelry, haute couture and its iconic fragrance N°5. Why in London? In fact “Les Bijoux de Diamants”, the only one high jewelry collection of diamonds, created by Coco Chanel herself in 1932, was due to be unveiled in London at the time. Yet complicated custom regulation obliged her, even the extremely determined woman, to give up this idea and the presentation was held in Paris instead. Besides, thinking over her personal side, her love of life Boy Capel was a British gentleman. Another forgettable figure among her numerous romances was Duc of Windsor whose “British” men’s wear influence such as tweed, jersey, etc., became key elements for Coco Chanel’s fashion design.

This homage to British inspiration is hinted around the path leading us from the gate to the gallery entrance: A spread of golden leaves animated by birds’ song is the “English garden” designed by landscape designer Harry & David Rich. At the entrance this British mood is blown away and a black and gold Chinese “Coromandel” screen appears in a dim light. Then a change of decoration: Coco Chanel’s super minimalist color palette “black and white”, which was quite particular at her time, brings us to a real journey from one place and time to another. Now we go through emblematic places of Coco Chanel, represented by trompe-loeil drawing walls. What a playful start! Now we are already deep into Chanel’s DNA with much excitement. Following this, a Gulliver version of “Les Bijoux de Diamands” catches us: A giant imitation of diamond comet necklace in a giant bird cage. Before Marilyn Monroe sings that “Diamonds are girl’s best friend”, Coco Chanel described this ultimate stone in a more pragmatic and smart way: “the greatest value in the smallest volume". Yet Lagerfeld wittily reversed the quote of Coco Chanel. Now we know that the show is full of metaphor and Lagerfeld enjoys a dialogue with the ghost of Coco Chanel.

Mademoiselle Privé’s first session at London’s Saatch Gallery will fall curtain on the 1st November. Yet they say that it will pull curtain in another city in the near future. Specially designed mobile app is worth downloading before visiting the exhibition.

http://mademoiselleprive.chanel.com/

  Mademoiselle Prive, the title of the exhibition, is pulled from the atelier’s door of Coco Chanel, who hated being disturbed and wrote “Private” in order to keep her staff away.

Mademoiselle Prive, the title of the exhibition, is pulled from the atelier’s door of Coco Chanel, who hated being disturbed and wrote “Private” in order to keep her staff away.

  Coromandel screen is one of the most important legacy of Coco Chanel’s personal belongings and preciously reserved in the “apartment”, on upper floor of rue Cambon boutique in Paris.

Coromandel screen is one of the most important legacy of Coco Chanel’s personal belongings and preciously reserved in the “apartment”, on upper floor of rue Cambon boutique in Paris.

  Eternal “Mademoiselle” in her suit and canotier hat, immortalized by Karl Lagerfeld.

Eternal “Mademoiselle” in her suit and canotier hat, immortalized by Karl Lagerfeld.

  An elaborated reproduction of the famous mirrored staircases of rue Cambon boutique, where Coco Chanel used to sit down and observe her haute-couture show while it was being held in downstairs.

An elaborated reproduction of the famous mirrored staircases of rue Cambon boutique, where Coco Chanel used to sit down and observe her haute-couture show while it was being held in downstairs.

 Coco Chanel’s key places are represented in 2 dimensions black trompe-loeil drawing on white wall, sometimes decorated by paper-crafted objects and a set of digital screens. Photo opportunity for me!

Coco Chanel’s key places are represented in 2 dimensions black trompe-loeil drawing on white wall, sometimes decorated by paper-crafted objects and a set of digital screens. Photo opportunity for me!

  Another trompe-l'oeil: Book shelves of Coco Chanel's Appartment on rue Cambon.

Another trompe-l'oeil: Book shelves of Coco Chanel's Appartment on rue Cambon.

  This installation reminds that Coco Chanel started her career as milliner.

This installation reminds that Coco Chanel started her career as milliner.

 One of her key places, Scotland, where she spent summers, is presented on a wall of tartan-check wall but in black and white, hinting her sober and strict color sheme.

One of her key places, Scotland, where she spent summers, is presented on a wall of tartan-check wall but in black and white, hinting her sober and strict color sheme.

 Lagerfeld wittily reversed the quote of Coco Chanel on diamonds “the greatest value in the smallest volume". In this sculpture, the volume is XL and its value is estimated much less than real diamonds. On the other hand a birdcage obviously recalls Vanessa Paradis tweeting in “Coco” fragrance advertising 24 years ago.

Lagerfeld wittily reversed the quote of Coco Chanel on diamonds “the greatest value in the smallest volume". In this sculpture, the volume is XL and its value is estimated much less than real diamonds. On the other hand a birdcage obviously recalls Vanessa Paradis tweeting in “Coco” fragrance advertising 24 years ago.

  Another totem: Chain is the heart of Chanel bag and also used at the inner edge of Chanel’s jacket to straighten the shape by its weight.

Another totem: Chain is the heart of Chanel bag and also used at the inner edge of Chanel’s jacket to straighten the shape by its weight.

  One of “totems”, based on several key words of Coco Chanel’s life and creation. Here, a robot is made of dices which carry her lucky numbers such as 5, 19, 21….

One of “totems”, based on several key words of Coco Chanel’s life and creation. Here, a robot is made of dices which carry her lucky numbers such as 5, 19, 21….

 Wheat is a lucky symbol, especially for superstitious Coco Chanel. She possessed wheat-shaped objects and this motif is often revisited by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel’s collection.

Wheat is a lucky symbol, especially for superstitious Coco Chanel. She possessed wheat-shaped objects and this motif is often revisited by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel’s collection.

  Black lines against white are everywhere at the exhibition, as if we walk inside in Chanel’s packaging or shopping bag.

Black lines against white are everywhere at the exhibition, as if we walk inside in Chanel’s packaging or shopping bag.

 One of totems is simply a Coco Chanel’s creation and her inspiration: A baroque statue from her apartment and fully embroidered haute-couture dress.

One of totems is simply a Coco Chanel’s creation and her inspiration: A baroque statue from her apartment and fully embroidered haute-couture dress.

  Short film “Visit Nocturn” written and directed by Karl Lagerfeld himself is a meeting of the reanimated Coco Chanel, played by Geraldine Chaplin, and Lagerfeld.

Short film “Visit Nocturn” written and directed by Karl Lagerfeld himself is a meeting of the reanimated Coco Chanel, played by Geraldine Chaplin, and Lagerfeld.

 Coco Chanel : “What do you think you are doing?” Karl Lagerfeld : “I am keeping you alive.”

Coco Chanel : “What do you think you are doing?” Karl Lagerfeld : “I am keeping you alive.”

 At No.5 room, several vats show the ingredients of the fragrance, such as jasmine, May rose, etc.,  The lids opens one after another and reveal coloured and scented liquid.

At No.5 room, several vats show the ingredients of the fragrance, such as jasmine, May rose, etc., The lids opens one after another and reveal coloured and scented liquid.

 Slot machines full of Chanel’s famous logo and plays of words were seen at Chanel haute couture show’s props in July 2015. In fact this “casino” set was a strong teasing of this exhibition: High profile gamblers who were playing the game at the middle of the runway, such as Kirstin Stewart, Lily-Rose Depp, Vanessa Paradis, Julian Moore, Stella Tenant, etc, compose the same casting as models wearing “Les Bijoux de Diamants” for a series of portrait photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

Slot machines full of Chanel’s famous logo and plays of words were seen at Chanel haute couture show’s props in July 2015. In fact this “casino” set was a strong teasing of this exhibition: High profile gamblers who were playing the game at the middle of the runway, such as Kirstin Stewart, Lily-Rose Depp, Vanessa Paradis, Julian Moore, Stella Tenant, etc, compose the same casting as models wearing “Les Bijoux de Diamants” for a series of portrait photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

 Finally the show reveals "Les bijoux de Diamants", Coco Chanel's creation in 1932. For this set, mannequinswears 2015 Fall-Winter haute couture gowns created by Karl Lagerfeld, exactly like "gamblers" played by celebrities in the middle of rhe runway props in July. On the wall :  portraits of 17 womens, muses and friends of the house wearing diamonds jewelry and photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

Finally the show reveals "Les bijoux de Diamants", Coco Chanel's creation in 1932. For this set, mannequinswears 2015 Fall-Winter haute couture gowns created by Karl Lagerfeld, exactly like "gamblers" played by celebrities in the middle of rhe runway props in July. On the wall :  portraits of 17 womens, muses and friends of the house wearing diamonds jewelry and photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

 The exhibition's last step is the French Garden: A play of geometry.

The exhibition's last step is the French Garden: A play of geometry.

 It's not a ladies room but a bearbrick-shaped Coco Chanel shadow. seen at the dining area at the opening cocktail party.

It's not a ladies room but a bearbrick-shaped Coco Chanel shadow. seen at the dining area at the opening cocktail party.

 The party goes on with concert of Jamie Bochert, iconic model turned to be a musician, muse and friend of the house of Chanel.

The party goes on with concert of Jamie Bochert, iconic model turned to be a musician, muse and friend of the house of Chanel.

 The opening party ended up with the second part of the concert, perfomed by Saint Vincent.

The opening party ended up with the second part of the concert, perfomed by Saint Vincent.

James Hennessy, a cognac which travels

Founded in 1765, the legendary Cognac house Hennessy celebrates its 250 years this year. At this occasion the house launched a new luxury cognac “James Hennessy”, named after the elder son of the founder. “ I did not mean a lower version of X.O (around 200 euros), neither a higher version of V.S.O.P. (around 50 euros). It is not just something in between but a real character”. Says Bernard Peillon, CEO of the house, to describe James Hennessy which is offered at 135 euros. And its harmonious, sensual and silky liquid with subtle vanilla and roasted almond note, is sealed in an ergonomically designed bottle created by Marc Newson. “Curve, which is significant in his work, suits us perfectly, since round is a subliminal way to describe cognac. Round is more sensual than straight lines or angles. The world of cognac is all about sensuality." As a homage to international vision of James Hennessy himself, this namesake cognac is dedicated to travelers, thus available exclusively at selected airports around the world, including Hennessy’s “shop in shop” at Charles De Gaulle airport. “I always say to my staff to be 15 minutes ahead to their watch.” Continues Peillon. An exclusive eau de vie at exclusive places. This is how the house can be slightly in advance to our time.

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James Hennessy, whose bottle was designed by Mark Newson,  is a new cognac sold exclusively on travel retail.

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Finally a secret destination of a day trip of launching event is revealed! Landing at Château du Champ de Bataille to discover James Hennessy.

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Jacques Garcia, renowned interior designer and the owner of Château du Champ de Bataille, renovated and redecorated the site. Next to the neo-classic main castle stands an astonishing Indian palace.

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Jacques Garcia brought every single pieces from Rajasthan to recreate an exquisite Indian Palace.

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Every room has different atmosphere.

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The house hosted a lunch banquet to celebrate the launching of James Hennessy cognac.

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Before the Indian Palace, a vast Indian garden stretches out.

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The location was perfectly chosen to make us feel an exclusive travel.

 

 

 

 

 

Louis Vuitton, La Galerie

The historical site of Louis Vuitton stands at a small street named "rue Louis Vuitton" in Asnière-sur Seine" (30 mns ride from Paris center). This is the trinity of the work shop where precious leather goods and special order trunks are handcrafted, art-nouveau style family house and its legendary archives. The archives, which used to be accessible only to professional and its staff, had been renovated and secretly opened its door in July 2015. The curator Judith Clark imagined playful scenography showing the house's iconic luggage, prêt-à-porter and accessories alongside historical costume of the 19th century, Vuitton family members' personal effects. etc., 

Open to public only during weekend by appointment

http://fr.louisvuitton.com/fra-fr/notre-histoire/asnieres#/home

 Damier, monogram....numerous iconic trunks

Damier, monogram....numerous iconic trunks

 Even for Houdini, the 19th century's most famous magicien, Louis Vuitton's patented lock was intriguing...   

Even for Houdini, the 19th century's most famous magicien, Louis Vuitton's patented lock was intriguing...

 

 Rather playful than academic. Judith Clark should have had fun on scenography.

Rather playful than academic. Judith Clark should have had fun on scenography.

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 Historical costumes gives a hint of "les années folles."

Historical costumes gives a hint of "les années folles."

 Trunk which used to belong to Paul Poiret.  This is a legende!   

Trunk which used to belong to Paul Poiret.  This is a legende!

 

 Mini trunk to send a bouquet of flower.

Mini trunk to send a bouquet of flower.

 Nurse-likeoutfit: collaboration of Marc Jacobs and Richard Prince.

Nurse-likeoutfit: collaboration of Marc Jacobs and Richard Prince.

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 Monogram-embroidered "Faux-cul",specially made for La Galerie.

Monogram-embroidered "Faux-cul",specially made for La Galerie.

 The entrance of work shop, which is connected to La Galerie, is early 20th centry's style architecture.

The entrance of work shop, which is connected to La Galerie, is early 20th centry's style architecture.



Happy birthday, Ingrid Bergman!

I didn't know that she was born and passed away on the same date. I didn't know that she was a serial fall-in-lover. I didn't know about her secret love with Robert Capa and a bold telegram to Roberto Rosselini. The actrice Ingrid Bergman would have celebrated her 100 years on the 29th August 2015. A moving documentary on her life was on-aired on French/Germain TV channel Arte .

 "Je suis Ingrid". WESLEYAN UNIVERSITY CINEMA ARCHIVE  

"Je suis Ingrid". WESLEYAN UNIVERSITY CINEMA ARCHIVE
 

This documentary of 107 minutes by Stig Björkman reveals her intimacy through her letters, personal movies and interview with family members.

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Capture from my TV screen showing Je Suis Ingrid : Ingrid Bergman in her early days.

    Ingrid Bergman left a series of diary and personal photographs. Capture from my TV screen showing  Je Suis Ingrid    

 

Ingrid Bergman left a series of diary and personal photographs. Capture from my TV screen showing Je Suis Ingrid

 

 Ingrid Bergman with her first husband Peter Lindström, Swedish docter, whom she quitted for Roberto Rosselini. Capture from my TV screen showing  Je Suis Ingrid

Ingrid Bergman with her first husband Peter Lindström, Swedish docter, whom she quitted for Roberto Rosselini. Capture from my TV screen showing Je Suis Ingrid

 Behind the beautiful and classy face of the actrice, there are numerous passionate episodes. Capture from my TV screen showing  Je Suis Ingrid

Behind the beautiful and classy face of the actrice, there are numerous passionate episodes. Capture from my TV screen showing Je Suis Ingrid

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If you are in Paris, don't miss: A spectacle of hommage to Ingrid Bergman at Theatre du Châtelet on the 5th October with Isabelle Rosselini, Fanny Ardant and Gérard Depardieu.

Puglian holidays (Southern Italy)

After 2 hours and half flight from Paris, here I landedat Brindisi airport. Then 3o mns of drive took me to Ceglie Messapica, a small charming village. As lovely beginning of holidays, I found a table linen market at the first walk of the historical city center, where I bought lace and embroidered table cloths (5 euros each!).   White villages crawl (Ostuni, Cisternino...), an excursion to baroque city (Lecce), driving through olive groves, splash in mild water beach, antique hunting and of course fooding.... a week in Puglia was incredibly diversified.

 Trulli : Puglia's typical dry stone made hut

Trulli : Puglia's typical dry stone made hut

 Very very hot (35 degrees) in mid-August! if your accommodation is not on sea side, a swimming pool is "must" in Puglia....

Very very hot (35 degrees) in mid-August! if your accommodation is not on sea side, a swimming pool is "must" in Puglia....

 Ostuni. White houses are lined up on a hill top

Ostuni. White houses are lined up on a hill top

 Vintage shop in Ostuni: Can Can is just around the corner from the fire station

Vintage shop in Ostuni: Can Can is just around the corner from the fire station

 Ostuni is full of chapels and churches.

Ostuni is full of chapels and churches.

 Antique store at the foot of the hill in old town of Ostuni. Stores are open late, till 10 or 11pm.

Antique store at the foot of the hill in old town of Ostuni. Stores are open late, till 10 or 11pm.

 Acquasale, the best restaurant in old town of Ostuni. Excellent sea food dish and 2 cute dogs!

Acquasale, the best restaurant in old town of Ostuni. Excellent sea food dish and 2 cute dogs!

 Ostuni by night: gate just in front of Cathedral of Santa Maria dell'Assunzione , up the hill of old town.

Ostuni by night: gate just in front of Cathedral of Santa Maria dell'Assunzione , up the hill of old town.

 Vendange at local vineyard,  Cantine Due Palme  in Cellino San Marco

Vendange at local vineyard, Cantine Due Palme in Cellino San Marco

 With my friend Safia at  Cantine Due Palme

With my friend Safia at Cantine Due Palme

 Excellent red wine from  Cantine Due Palme  : Primitivo

Excellent red wine from Cantine Due Palme : Primitivo

 A small but the most baroque town Lecce is called "Florence in the south".

A small but the most baroque town Lecce is called "Florence in the south".

 Detail of a church in Lecce

Detail of a church in Lecce

 Detail of a church in Lecce.

Detail of a church in Lecce.

 Institution :  Cotognata Leccese . A good old bar which serves the best caffe leccese (coffee with almond milk, and ice cubes)

Institution : Cotognata Leccese. A good old bar which serves the best caffe leccese (coffee with almond milk, and ice cubes)

 The prettiest town in the region is Cisternino. The best restaurant here is  Taverna della Torre  !

The prettiest town in the region is Cisternino. The best restaurant here is Taverna della Torre !

 Window hunting in Cisternino 1/2

Window hunting in Cisternino 1/2

 Window hunting in Cisternino 2/2 Arrivederci Signore Picasso!

Window hunting in Cisternino 2/2 Arrivederci Signore Picasso!